
Les Stroud's Beyond Survival
The Mentawai Shamans of Indonesia Part 1
Episode 119 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Stroud learns of the connection the Mentawai have to their environment and to honoring it.
Tribes living in the most remote regions are being threatened by oil exploration, mining and logging, disturbing the natural world. The Mentawai Islands lie to the West of Sumatra in the Indian Ocean. Les journeys 9 hours from the island of Siberut, navigating log-jammed river systems and shallow waters, followed by a trek on foot into the heart of the island, arriving at the Mentawai tribe.
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Les Stroud's Beyond Survival is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television
Les Stroud's Beyond Survival
The Mentawai Shamans of Indonesia Part 1
Episode 119 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Tribes living in the most remote regions are being threatened by oil exploration, mining and logging, disturbing the natural world. The Mentawai Islands lie to the West of Sumatra in the Indian Ocean. Les journeys 9 hours from the island of Siberut, navigating log-jammed river systems and shallow waters, followed by a trek on foot into the heart of the island, arriving at the Mentawai tribe.
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- Hi, I'm Les Stroud, host and creator of ''Beyond Survival''.
Within the scope of filming this series, I circled the globe eight times in 10 months.
I was never not in a state of jet lag.
To embed myself with cultures who still either live close to the earth or engage in practices meant to keep their connection to the earth.
It was a chance to stretch my own skills and beliefs beyond what I knew.
Beyond survival.
In many cases, I had to come to these cultures in a state of humility, offering a gift and seeking permission to take part in their lives to experience life as they knew it.
I went in without pretense, without presumption, without agenda, and left myself completely in their care so that I was open to learning their ways.
Hunting, fishing, eating, sleeping the way that they do.
Sometimes it was modern-influenced with much connection to the outside world.
And other times, it was near primitive.
In all cases, I was challenged both in my own well-honed skill sets of survival and wilderness experience, but also in my own belief system about life itself.
I learned to go beyond the technicalities of hunting and fishing, and shelters and fire.
And instead, to dig deeper into what it means to be truly connected to the earth in profound ways, to go beyond survival.
I'm in the middle of an Indonesian jungle, with an elder of the Mentawai tribe.
He doesn't speak a word of English.
There's something burning in my left eye and he wants me to put ants with a really powerful bite on my tongue.
It's not going so well.
(tense music spike) - I'm Les Stroud and I'm in Indonesia seeking out the true masters of survival, some of the last indigenous people on earth.
Before they're gone.
(eerie music) Before the past is lost, before their world vanishes.
I can learn their ways.
(epic music) - [Voiceover] The Mentawai live in the jungles of an island called Siberut, the largest of four major islands located off the west coast of Sumatra in Indonesia.
My journey starts at the main port called Muara Siberut.
Dirty and polluted.
From here, I'll travel 10 hours by boat, to the heart of the remote jungle island, where the Mentawai live in family clans and longhouses called umas.
The Mentawai culture has survived for centuries because they've always lived in balance with their surroundings.
- An intense, intense Indonesian heat, sun and ridiculously polluted waters.
Headed out of this, this little port village here.
On the way to the jungle now.
It's going to be a 10 hour journey up this jungle river and I'm just going to hope that at some point, the water gets a little cleaner.
I imagine when we get out of this little estuary village that it does, and then it's just jungle all the way up.
- [Voiceover} There are times when heading Upstream is almost impossible.
The river becomes too shallow unless they get the normal jungle rains.
But like everywhere else on the planet, the climate is changing here too.
Known for their teeth-filing and tattooing, the Mentawai live deep in the jungle, yet only a day from civilization, Another culture straddling the knife edge of primitive existence and modern cultural assimilation.
- It's, uh, it's getting a little intense.
We're, uh, we're at a smaller part of the river now.
We have to keep getting out to get over logs, go over sandbars, over rocks.
So, uh, it's becoming a bit of a job and that sun is not helping.
- [Voiceover] Called Pong-Pongs because of the sound, the motors have propellers on a long pole, so they can carefully navigate shallow waters like these.
- Got some serious dark clouds off in the distance there.
One side of the sky is pure blue and beautiful, and the other side is black with thunderclouds - [Voiceover] Like so many remote cultures, the Mentawai who continue to live in the jungle, are looked upon as savages by the outsiders.
Many of whom themselves have Mentawai ancestry.
I'm here to share in their Shaman system of tattooing and trance dancing, to connect with the animal spirit world.
- All right, finally.
We're pulling into the camp here.
Hello?
Hello.
I've met up with the Mentawai, they're gonna take me into their village in the jungle here.
Torocha is the main, he's my main dude.
He's a Shaman with the Mentawai.
So, he apparently is thrilled that I'm here.
- [Voiceover] Each family clan is known by their uma or longhouse.
Families of the same clan live together, sleeping row upon row in huts made by machetes.
I'm here to learn of Torocha's ways and to take part in Shaman ceremonies.
He considers me as somewhat of a traveling shaman.
It was a way for him to understand why I would want to actually take part in the Mentawai way of life.
Torocha will play host to me and some other Mentawai shamans from other clans who are on their way here to join in a trance dance ceremony and to connect with me.
But first, to prove my worth and show the integrity of my intentions, I'll head out on an overnight trek into the jungle on a hunt for monkeys.
- That's my Mentawai cam, I'll call this.
We're going to start working on some poison arrows.
Now I feel that poison here is extremely powerful.
We're just gonna get the arrows going and get ourselves prepared for what's coming next, which is the long hunt.
(Mentawai singing) - [Voiceover] Carving is different no matter where you go, knives are curved as such that it wraps around his leg perfectly and then he's just drawing I'm familiar with a lot of different draw knives, a lot of different methods of carving.
This is a new one again.
Techniques may differ, but the end result's the same.
This is going to be for a monkey.
Some of them are for a wild pig.
It's really intricate, intricate work right on the tip.
Very fine line sliced all the way around it.
To figure out, just to make sure that that the poison is potent.
They actually taste it, but that's okay because the poison is not a problem in terms of tasting.
It's problem, getting into your blood.
(speaking foreign language) (Les responding in foreign language) (speaking foreign language) So far, we've mixed in root, leaves, and these little, little tiny chili peppers, but super, super hot chili peppers.
Nothing you wanna touch, anyway.
(speaking foreign language) (poison dripping) Every last drop of this has to be squeezed out of the mixture.
You watch, you've got to be really, really careful not to touch it too much.
You can always tell just how deadly or dangerous something is by how cautious they play it.
Indigenous cultures are always cautious with me in terms of dealing with something poisonous or dangerous.
So I watched to see, how are they with themselves?
When I see them moving extremely slowly and not touching then I know okay, so it's real serious business, right now.
Still never ceases to amaze me, the concoction of three simple plants can provide a lethal combination for hunting wild game.
And again, for me, just the thought of how in the world did they ever figure this stuff out?
Somehow, they figure it out.
(speaking foreign language) - [Voiceover] They've never had an outsider willing to go the distance with them on an activity that is at the base of their jungle existence.
Then, I'll hopefully earn the right to receive a tattoo, but not without first earning their respect.
Amanipa hunts monkeys about once a week, not always successful.
Maybe once a month, they're successful.
We have a long way to go.
It's going to be overnight, so we're leaving our little village and heading out.
These trails here are well worn.
The problem is, that's years of walking in bare feet.
My hikers are wide enough that they don't even fit in the little tracks that all their bare feet have made over the years.
You try to be quiet when you're hunting with someone who's hunting in bare feet and you have hikers on or boots on, it's just impossible.
I've gotta employ as much stealth as I possibly can.
'Cause these guys, other than talking, barely make a sound going through the jungle.
Classic water vine.
- [Voiceover] We're taking a short break, likely for my benefit.
- Through break about half an hour, we're off and running again.
That's a long ways up.
What's really interesting is we're dealing with three generations of Mentawai here.
Torocha, the eldest and the shaman.
Amanipa, the strong hunter.
Apprentice, Jakubas.
Jakubas represents the hope that their conditions and their culture will survive.
This time we can hear the monkeys that we want.
They're off in the distance.
(speaking foreign language) - [Voiceover] The Mentawai are losing their territory to government decisions and the encroachment of the outside world.
As a result, we've had to travel far to find an old hunting spot with available game.
- This might be where we're stopping for the night, but mostly gonna wanna spruce it up.
There's just a small problem here.
This place is crawling with leeches.
I just asked Torocha if they're a problem.
He said, yeah, they're a problem for sure.
As soon as he saw one on himself, he pulled it off right away.
And they're everywhere, just these little tiny leeches I asked if they go into the skin.
He said, yes, yes.
Okay, you film?
Yeah?
Okay.
- [Voiceover] This jungle has plenty of snakes, scorpions and leeches, not quite as filled with deadly creatures like it is in the Amazon, but there's still plenty to watch out for.
The Mentawai believe that everything that exists has a soul.
Human beings, but also animals, plants, and the natural surroundings.
Before using anything, permission must be asked.
They are true animists.
- Now we're settled up in here.
The dogs are with us.
I'm not sure if it's because we're, we're settled here now so we can do an early morning hunt for the monkeys or if we're just pausing and we're going to go later.
Big time language barrier.
- [Voiceover] Brought in from the uma or caught fresh from the jungle stream when I wasn't looking, I'm not sure which.
Torocha has cooked fish in bamboo for lunch.
Like rice in Asia, Sago is the main food of the Mentawai.
The chewable sticks made of flour from the kneaded pulp from the Sago palms.
- I have absolutely no idea what I'm eating other than Sago dipped in some kind of fish stuff.
- [Voiceover] Harmony between one soul and the natural earth is a guiding principle in their lives.
They also strive to maintain balance with their own clans and close neighbors as well.
There are no chiefs.
So it's each individual's responsibility to maintain spiritual and social balance.
Without the shamans, there would be no one to turn to for guidance.
- Well, sleeping here tonight, I'll have to watch out for a lot of ants.
Some of them pack a big wallet but mostly I better watch out for leeches.
Leeches here are small, but they burrow into your skin really quickly.
I remember hearing a story about a guy that was in the jungle like this.
It was an adventure race.
On the radio, this call comes in and says, yeah, this guy's here.
And he says, he just watched a leech disappear up his urethra.
He wants to know what to do.
Killer part of that story is the answer.
He said, well, it's okay.
It'll engorge itself with blood and then it'll leave.
You just have to wait.
I'm doing my pants uptight tonight.
- [Voiceover] I'm in the middle of the Indonesian jungle with three Mentawai shamans, on a hunt for monkeys.
One of the beliefs is actually that they don't like to take too much food when they go hunting, because it takes their mind off the fact that they're hunting.
They want to be hungry in the hunt.
It turns out, they actually brought a sort of a makeshift cotton tent.
And we're all in here together.
One big happy family, and this guy wants to snuggle.
- [Voiceover] The rain has been coming down for hours.
In fact, all night long.
And this doesn't bode well for hunting.
These Mentawai know exactly what to do for survival.
When the weather is bad, save your energy.
On Siberut, there are rare types of monkey and lots of species of plants that exist nowhere else.
A large chunk of traditional Mentawai hunting grounds have been designated as a national wildlife park.
And this has made hunting more difficult.
And the treks into the jungle further and longer for the clans.
We've decided we could have better luck if we split into two groups and circle around each side of the jungle mountain.
So Torocha and I stopped briefly to gather vine for binding a pig they've trapped for us to pick up on the way back to the village.
The pig will be part of the celebration feast for my tattooing and the animal spirit trance ceremony.
It will be a gathering of Mentawai shamans and myself in a ritual to reharmonize with the animal spirits and come into balance with them and the natural world.
- This is a pretty jungle-y jungle.
- [Voiceover] As the cicadas of the jungle screech all around us, Torocha spots a couple of monkeys fleeing in the trees.
(cicadas screeching) - Well, I just found out that those little leeches hurt.
They start to dig into your skin right away.
Blood mark from pulling just a tiny little leech, but man, they hurt.
So no luck.
There's a couple of monkeys, but they made their way out of here.
At least we know they're here.
I'm assuming that's the sound of cicadas in the background.
It's pretty intense.
It's a heavy jungle, and they get loud.
Torocha and I basically just completed a big circle in the jungle, looping around.
We're actually back on our original trail headed back towards the other two.
They've done the same thing in the other direction.
This is a new workout program I'm designing.
- [Voiceover] The rains return and Torocha and I have made it back to the shelter before the others, which gives us the opportunity to do what shamans do, connect with the natural spirit world.
(singing in foreign language) When Torocha sings, he's harmonizing his spirit with the jungle and the animal spirits around him.
It's a Mentawai tradition to seek balance with their surroundings through song.
It's not only respectful for me to learn his songs and for he to learn mine, it's vital to our relationship.
(singing together) - We're just getting ourselves ready to leave.
Amanipa has come back and nothing.
So, we've been out here hunting for nearly two full days, and I've seen maybe three monkeys.
We've come a long way and we've got a long way to go back.
And we're going back empty-handed, not a good omen for the ceremony, but they'll carry on nonetheless.
(speaking foreign language) - And away we go.
This is a long, hard slog going back up.
I'm turning you off.
- [Voiceover] It's not a good sign that we had an unsuccessful hunt.
And it leaves me wondering if Torocha will remain agreeable to my involvement in the trance ceremony and receiving a tattoo.
Trekking through the thick jungle on a long and arduous journey.
We finally meet up with some others to pick up one of their domesticated pigs for the trance ceremony.
The pigs actually wander freely in the jungle and have to be re-trapped, caught for feasts and special occasions.
- This is pretty rank.
It stinks here.
This is kind of disgusting.
This looks like it's going to be a treat.
Apparently, right beside the pig here is Sago worm.
Wonderful, juicy, tasty larva.
I can't wait.
So, the shaman are actually not allowed to eat the larva.
- [Voiceover] It's tradition.
You can't eat anything that isn't sacrificed or prepared specifically for the anticipated ceremony.
And today, this includes grubs.
- You're not allowed to have it.
The kids love it.
He's like, all right, I'm in.
Okay.
Oh, that's disgusting.
- [Voiceover] I'm on the island of Siberut with a tribe called the Mentawai.
I'm about to share in a jungle delicacy.
Sago larva.
- Okay.
I'll take it, I'll take it.
I can eat it.
I'm not afraid here.
Here, give me that.
Give me that sucker.
Did he just eat the whole thing?
I don't- Oh, that's disgusting.
I bet you, it tastes good.
So, this is the Sago larva.
This is a treat for these guys.
The kid ate his first because it's a treat.
I just can't eat the head.
Okay.
Me and you.
- [Tribe Member] Mananam - Mananam.
- [Tribe Member] Mananam - Yeah, I'm just saying that.
Ugh.
That means 'delicious'.
Y'know, I'm not bitter.
- [Tribe Member] Mananam.
- Y'know how you chew that last piece of grizzle and you can't swallow it, but it's still in your mouth and you just keep chewing it and then you're looking around for the bread on the table.
This is one of those moments.
Oh!
Oh man.
- [Tribe Member] Mananam.
- Mananam.
Delicious.
That's the Sago larva.
Didn't it look delicious?
Aye, aye, aye.
Well.
I feel like carrying a big, fat pig on my shoulders now.
- [Voiceover] A few miles from the uma longhouse, we now have to bind a large pig trapped alive, and get him back for the trance ceremony.
- This pig is not happy at all.
He's sunk down into the muck and they're trying to lift up his rump end so they can get a noose around his legs.
And when they do, all hell's going to break loose.
I think they're going to get him right now.
Oh no.
His- his leg's exposed.
Here we go.
Oh man.
So they're actually binding the two feet together.
Just outside the cage here.
It really stinks.
And this is a disgusting place.
They have a lot of problems getting hookworms in their body through their feet because activities like these.
It's easy to underestimate how powerful these animals can be.
Pigs can be very strong.
And this one is just going to wanna bite, bite, and bite.
He's got some nasty, gnarly teeth.
So, the bindings on the feet have to be extremely tight.
- [Voiceover] The pig is carried and kept alive until they're ready for the sacrifice.
Pigs and roosters are as close as it gets to non-jungle oriented survival for these Mentawai.
And the pigs are the main form of currency.
It's the pigs that are used as payment for apprenticing shamans, but acquiring them is extremely difficult and poses the first of many obstacles that young boys, like the one helping me carry the pig, face.
If they want to become shamans.
- Yep.
I'd be kind of upset too.
Torocha's preparations for the trance ceremony and my tattooing are interrupted when he's called to heal a little girl suffering from a serious fever.
There are no doctors here.
So, Torocha gathers the plants he needs to affect the healing.
Shamans like Torocha have a lot of responsibility to their own uma and their surrounding neighbors.
Torocha has to rely on his intimate relationship with the spirit world to heal those who fall sick, while at the same time, prevent attack from evil spirits that they believe cause disease.
For the Mentawai, the pharmacy is simply the natural world that surrounds them.
(tribal music)
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Les Stroud's Beyond Survival is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television